Everything You Need To Know About Dormeuil Fabrics

Cloth Dormeuil

When it comes to choosing the most luxurious suit fabrics, Dormeuil suiting fabrics have earned a reputation of distinction through cutting edge and innovative techniques.  They are not just a superior cloth mill; they are one of the best mills in the world. Only the best raw materials, such as mohair from the Scottish Highlands, luxury wools & cashmeres are turned into covetable fabrics ready for tailoring.

A name synonymous with elegance, Dormeuil blends timeless British elegance with a touch of French chic. In its 180 years of history, Dormeuil is well-known as the choice for kings, presidents, Hollywood stars and connoisseurs from all over the world.

The Dormeuil History

Dormeuil (pronounced “door-may”) was founded in 1842 by Jules Dormeuil with the initial objective of importing English cloth into France. Today, it is a fifth generation family firm and one of the leading providers of luxury fabrics for the five continents of the world.

Jules started his career as a fabric merchant when he was 22 years old. After a few years, his brothers Alfred and Auguste joined him in the business who were both inspired and motivated by his achievement.

In 1862, The company was named Dormeuil Frères and set up its registered office at 4 rue Vivienne in Paris. The first Dormeuil boutique in London was opened in 1871. Dormeuil established themselves as a stable provider of high-quality materials for aristocratic clothing in Paris and London. Dormeuil textiles were ordered on a regular basis by notable tailors in various locations and were used by top fashion firms to produce couture items.

Dormeuil Freres business card from the 1880’s

With its success in Paris and London, Dormeuil began doing business in Asia by 1880. In 1905, the company opened its first U.S. office along Manhattan’s 5th avenue. By 1920, the House of Dormeuil released their first fabrics for women. Six years later, Georges Dormeuil, the second-generation leader, built the Dormeuil House in London’s Golden Square. 

Meanwhile, the fashion business was undergoing drastic changes, such as the advent of the ready-to-wear idea but the Dormeuil family was unfazed, and released its first ready-to-wear collection in 1957 as a response to the changes.

Dormeuil opened its offices in China and Australia in 1990 and celebrated its 150th anniversary in 1992, for which the Eiffel Tower lights were switched off in honour of the company’s legacy.

The Dormeuil Fabrics

The history of Dormeuil can be traced through its many famous and innovative creations from its origins to present day. The game -changer Sportex, their first Haute Couture collection in 1950, and Tonik® in 1957 are just a few of Dormeuil’s fabric breakthroughs.

Here is a short rundown on Dormeuil fabrics that changed the fashion industry.


Dormeuil Vintage Sportex 1968 fabric

The first cloth to have a woven selvedge to prevent the side edges of the fabric from unraveling or fraying. It was designed to keep warmth without restricting movement, hence its popularity among European outdoors sportsmen. Sportex’s success prompted Dormeuil to move its headquarters to Regent Street in London’s West End, which is the world’s epicentre of textile retail.


Dormeuil Frilex

A pure wool fabric with a very aerated, simple weave and a particular structure that makes it incredibly fresh to wear and quick to dry. It was first introduced in 1936. The cloth was once again an instant hit with athletes all over the world, including professional tennis players.


Michael Caine in advertising campaign for Dormeuil Tonik

An elegant, high-quality fabric that is soft to the touch, lightweight, and drapes beautifully to create a flattering silhouette for any fashion ensemble. Tonik was a result of Dormeuil’s collaboration with Parisian haute couture in the 1950s. The fabric was wholly woven in England, and the pure three-ply mohair weft, along with specific processing and finishing, gave it a unique sheen.

Super Brio

A formal, very lightweight fabric, introduced by Dormeuil in the 1970s. It was regarded as one of the most exquisite light mohair textiles in the world.


The first high-twist fabric that is capable of providing both coolness and crease-resistance. It was produced in 1989 by combining prime merino wool with a completely new spinning and finishing method, igniting a revolution in the world of premium fabrics.


Hailed as Dormeuil’s best seller. Amadeus is  fine, smooth and comfortable, yet appropriate for everyday wear.


Introduced in 2006, it is among the most expensive and luxurious fabric of the House Dormeuil with a limited quantity of a mere 300 suit lengths. One of the world’s most expensive suits is called Dormeuil Vanquish II which is made from a combination of the world’s rarest fabrics, which include Ambassador, Royal Qivuik, Kirgzy White, Dorsilk, and Fifteen Point Eight. The suit alone is valued at $95, 319. 


A pure wool that features 20% elastane stretch for unprecedented comfort and range of motion.
It was launched in 2016 and dubbed
by Dormeuil as “the cloth of the future.” 

What Makes Dormeuil Fabric Superior?

Dormeuil’s fabrics are a combination of art, science, and nature. With these principles in mind, Dormeuil is built on the remarkable quality of carefully chosen raw materials and on the expertise gained from 180 years of business, as well as modern technology that contributes to innovation and improvement.

Raw Materials

If there is one crucial aspect of luxury, it’s the quality and rarity of the materials used to create it. The materials used for the noble fabrics of Dormeuil are some of the finest in the world. They come from an impressive number of sources, some of which are so rare that they can only be found in the most remote corners of our globe like the Kyrgyzstan goats of the Celestial Mountains.


It is not just the quality of the fibres that makes the mill successful. It is the ability to combine these fibres to make yarns with amazing properties that is the true secret. To begin with, Dormeuil uses only long filament yarns, which are stronger and more luxurious than the shorter filament yarns used by other mills. The company carefully chooses the yarns that are the most constant in terms of diameter (measured in microns). This size uniformity adds to the final product’s robustness. Finally, Dormeuil selects the clearest yarns possible, resulting in excellent colour brightness.


Dormeuil fabric is restricted to around 70 suit lengths per bolt for the most part, making almost every Dormeuil garment “limited edition” in nature.

Dormeuil is one of the finest and most luxurious fabric producers in the world, with a remarkable history that illuminates the past and present of the entire industry as a whole. Their dedication to innovation and quality remains unparalleled, and it’s fair to say that their influence on the world of fashion stretches far beyond the borders of France. Dormeuil deserves its prestige, and continues to be one of the industry giants.

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